Last Updated: 07/22/03

Click underlined countries/regions to link directly to corresponding journal entries

April 4, 2002: Off to Bolivia

Today we started our three day tour to Bolivia ending in a small Bolivian town called Uyuni.  We left San Pedro by 8am and were at the Bolivian boarder within an hour or so.  Shortly after the boarder, we stop at a rufugio in the middle of nowhere� had breakfast and switched from a mini-van to 4x4 Toyota Landcruisers.  They packed the 4x4�s with supplies for the 3 days and we were off.  We quickly climbed to the highest point in the trip as we crossed 5000 meters (15,000 feet) or within 20 meters of it and came to our first stop or �site�, Laguna Blanca, and next to Laguna Verde.  These lakes have white salty shores and mineral rich water which creates the amazing colors for which they are named.  After the lakes, we passed by some thermas or naturally heated swimming holes where many people took a dip.  Our 4x4 decided to skip the swimming and head straight for the geysers.  Unlike the geysers we saw in Chile, these were larger holes bubbling and spitting up a grey thick mud and there was a very strong sulfur smell.  New holes are  created all the time (you can feel the ground heat) and so we really had to be careful about where to step.  They have even been fatalities there�but since this wasn�t the U.S. we were on our own to be careful and use our best judgment � and therefore we were able to work up and get a close views.  It was really neat to think about all the activity under the earth�s surface as a result of this visit.  Next, on to Laguna Colorada � this lake is red!!  Really red!!  The color comes from alge and plankton that thrive in the mineral rich water.  To match the lake are flamingos which breed there.  We end the day staying in a small pueblo named �valle mar�  where the locals herd llamas and sheep as well as grow Quinoa � a type of crop that resembles cuscus and which grows at this high altitude (we are still above 4000m).  As far as the high attitude, it hasn�t caused too much trouble for us � but we definitely have had some headaches and we must move pretty slowly walking around our get winded.  After dinner, we had tea made from the coca leaves � legal in Peru and Boliva.  Can�t really recommend it for the taste � and not really convinced it helped with our headaches either � but it was fun to try!  

April 5, 2002:  Valley of the Rocks

We start today by visiting the valley of the rocks � a large exposure of impressive rock formations created by lava thousands of years ago.  Among the rocks are petraglifs and dwelling remains from the pre-inca times.  The �houses� they created by stacking stones were so tiny it was difficult to imagine a person even getting into one even if humans were smaller during that time.  They had to sleep in a crouched sitting position.  After seeing this, we all started referring to really small things as �inca-small� -- new vocab for the trip.  The rest of the day was spent traveling through Bolivia country-side.  We passed numerous llama herds countless crops of quinoa being worked by locals.  The land and climate are so difficult up here it is hard to believe these people survive.  We end the day in a slightly bigger pueblo that has a school.  A few children we pass ask us for pens so they can practice writing and doing their homework.  School supplies are almost non-existent here.  We wished our guide book or someone would have mentioned this so that we could have brought a pack of pens from town before we left.

April 6, 2002:  Salar de Uyuni

Today we saw landscapes unlike anything we�d ever imagined.  The Salar de Uyuni is over 12,000 sq km (xx sq miles) of salt that is the result of ancient lakes that used to completely cover much of southwestern Bolivia.  When the lake dried up it left two �large puddles� (present day lakes: Poopo and Uru Uru) and two major salt deposits named Coipasa and Salar de Uyuni.  Over the past few days we had seen several salt lakes and therefore thought we were prepared to �just� see more salt� but the size and whiteness was incredible.  The dry salt was rock hard but looked and shinned like snow.  The Lonely Planet guide book describes the salar as �a blinding white expanse of the greatest nothing imaginable�� which we think is a pretty good description.  It goes on to say that when the salar is covered with a little bit of water �the surface perfectly reflects the clouds and blue altiplano sky and the horizon disappears� when driving across the surface, the effect is positively eerie and it�s hard to believe you�re not actually flying.�  Thanks to rain last month we got to experience this!  The horizon did totally disappear and the blue sky reflected in the inches of water on the salt made the water seem like a deep lake instead of a shallow pool.  So in addition to flying, we felt like we were driving on top of the ocean.  There are several �islands� in the salt deposit.  We stopped at one call �Isla de los Pescadores� for lunch and a hike.  The island rock resembles coral with its sharp surface and it is easy to imagine it once being covered by water.  What is hard to imagine is all the cactus that now completely cover the island.  Large �saguaro-like� cactus shoot up tall and create a strange contrast against the white salt background which resembles snow.  Cactus and snow just don�t seem to mix.  We had a fantastic time hiking around the island and taking tons of pictures trying to make it all seem real.   At the top of the island there were some great caves and/or stone bridges which only added to the experience.  Once we got to Uyuni (the small town just outside the salt deposit) for the night we couldn�t help but wonder why we had never heard of the place before traveling.  �The salt flats of Bolivia� just doesn�t roll off the tongue when talking of other amazing sites and locations around the world (e.g., Galapagos Islands, Machu Picchu, etc.), but the absolute uniqueness of this area makes us think that it should.  

April 7, 2002

OK � Karen is sick.  We�ve avoided everyday topics in the journal up to now� but we think its about time to write about some of the �less wonderful� things that go along with travel.  As for being sick� first there�s the head cold.  Karen has had a bad one for two weeks now.  Just can�t shake it� probably because John caught the same cold to a lesser degree and now neither of us has a chance to get rid of it.  Not being able to breath and sinus pressure stinks when you are at home� but when you are traveling every day between 3000 and 4000+ meters it really throws you because we don�t really know how much of the headaches and dizziness are due to the altitude and how much are due to the colds.  Then� there�s the bathroom irregularity issues.  You never really know what got into your system� but you do know that when it hits you need to be close to the bathroom at all times.  Karen is dealing with this issue today on top of her cold.  In fact, this morning we had plans to travel from Uyuni to Potosi (even bought the tickets last night) but had to cancel our trip because Karen couldn�t imagine seven hours on a Bolivian bus today.  Instead, we are staying another night in Uyuni and hope things are somewhat back to normal by tomorrow.  Uyuni is actually a good place to rest because there is really nothing to do here.  It is a very small town where most streets are dirt, but it does have a paved square with trees and benches that we are enjoying at the moment. 

While still somewhat close to the bathroom topic, we might also want to document some of the �creature comforts� you go without while traveling.  Just to level set� by this time we are both completely used to throwing used toilet paper into the waste basket instead of the toilet.  Other than in Santiago, this has been the norm throughout the entire trip and at this point seems very reasonable.  The last few days in Bolivia have added a new dimension because a lot of the toilets don�t have mechanisms to flush.  Instead, there is a large tub of water at the front of the room with a plastic container for scooping and carrying water from the tub.  Once you�ve finished your business, you go get water from the tub and pour it down the toilet � Karen calls this the �manual flush.�  Needless to say, this system doesn�t work quite as well as one might like and the level of privacy is almost non-existent.  Note: you usually need to pay to use restrooms of this quality� but then we�ve also had to pay to use a simple hole in the ground so that�s now saying much.  The other creature comfort we�ll mention is electricity.  Many of the towns we�ve stayed in during the past two weeks from San Pedro de Atacama in Chile to Uyuni in Bolivia only have electricity from sundown to about midnight or 1am if the town is a good size (over 1000 people) and only til about 9pm at the small pueblos we stayed at during our 3-day trip.  This makes re-charging John�s digital camera a little difficult. J

April 8, 2002:  Potosi

Well recovered or not� its time to leave Uyuni.  We make it out in time to have breakfast in the morning before we leave.  We are still traveling with Mette as she decided to stay behind a day to wait for us as Karen rested and now she and John form a majority on getting breakfast in the morning; Karen would have chosen to sleep in!  Anyway, the bus left around 10am and traveled through the high desert landscape of the altiplano.  At times it looked very much like Arizona or southern California, yet other times it looked like a place all its own.  Every so often we would see tiny shelters made from mud bricks (most common building material here) and wonder how the families that work this desert landscape above 12,000 feet survive.  We arrive in Potosi about 5-5:30pm and are very, very pleasantly surprised to find what looks and feels like a pretty big city.  After the rural settings for the past five days and our seven hour bus ride we are happy to find Potosi is bigger than we thought.  We find a cute old monastery that has been converted to a hostel to stay.

April 9, 2002:  Strike

STRIKE!!  Today they are having a transportation strike in Potosi.  No buses (local or long distance) or taxis, etc. are working here.  In addition, they have barricaded all the roads into and out of town so there is no traffic allowed at all in the city � even if you had your own care you couldn�t drive it here.  While this may have been inconvient for people working in Potosi or for travelers planning to go someplace today� but it was perfect for us because we were able to explore the city without all the chocking exhaust pollution and maze of cars that usually congest the city.  Instead every street was a �walking� street today.  We explored the city, set up a tour of the famous Potosi mines for tomorrow and tried to visit the money minting museum (Casa de Modea) twice.  This was the only frustration we had due to the strike.  We paid for and waited for a tour around 11am but were told around 11:30am that we could not tour at that time because they were closing at noon for lunch and an hour or less was not enough time.  We were told to come back at 2pm.  When we returned at 2pm, we were told that because of the strike they were closing the museum early (i.e. at 2pm) in order to give employees ample time to get home since public transportation was not running.  To make up for closing early, they decided to stay open during the lunch hours and gave a tour from noon to 2pm� just after we left � Aghh!  Some people who were leaving the next day were really upset� but as the extremely honest guide who was explaining the situation said, �This is Bolivia!�  In the evening, the barricaded streets gave a perfect opportunity for student protests who organized and marched the streets with banners, chants and dynamite.  Yes, dynamite!  Since this is a mining town, dynamite is accessible and they are not afraid to use it. A blast went off not more than 40 ft from John who like all the other gringos jumped out of his skin.

April 10, 2002:  Potosi Mines

Today we visited the mines of Potosi where miners work for themselves with primitive hand tools, small sticks of dynamite and really nothing else.  The conditions are horrendous � practically mid-evil � as miners do everything by hand (from breaking rocks to carrying heavy sacks and wheelbarrows of ore) and breathe noxious chemicals and gases (silica dust, arsenic gas, asbestos deposits, etc.) all for a tiny, tiny amount of money... estimates from $1 to $2 a day.  At this wage (driven by the depressed precious metal market over the past years) there is no extra money to invest in better working conditions or more expensive automated tools.  The miners themselves are actually very friendly and surprisingly most are miners by choice.  Some carrying on family tradition and some simply prefer to work for themselves in order to have a consistent job that earns some amount of money regardless of how small.  They are proud to be miners!  As we visit each miner working, we give them much needed supplies of dynamite as well as coca leaves and cigarettes.  We also brought some soft drinks which were a big hit.  The miners don�t eat once they enter the mines in the morning until they leave in the evening� so they rely on coca leaves and drinks to suppress their appetite and keep their energy levels up for the excruciating hard work.  We actually thought the tour itself was hard work� at time crawling thought tunnels in the dark, wading through puddles of mud, and climbing up and down through tiny mine shafts.  We spent two hours outside the mines where we talked with women who break the tailings (previous mine refuge) for traces of ore� literally they break rocks all day!  Then we spent two hours inside the mines with the miners.  It was a tough tour to experience, but really glad we did it.  We are lucky to live in such a rich part of the world where working conditions like those in the mines are not part of daily life.

April 11, 2002: Bus Ride

Most buses leave Potosi to Sucre between 6 and 7:30am.  We searched around until we found one that left at 10:15am so Karen could sleep in and John & Mette could go get breakfast.  When we got to the bus we were the only ones booked with tickets to leave so the bus company decided to wait around for at least 15-20 minutes past the departure time trying to pick up another handful of people to go to Sucre.  They got quite a few other passengers, but the bus was still only about half full.  At this time we were very excited because we thought we could each have our own two seats for the trip.  That didn�t last for long� once we started we circled Potosi for another 45 minutes picking up more people and finally stopped next to what seemed to be an already full bus.  The driver of our bus just got out and started unloading our bags from atop the bus.  This was our only clue to change buses since clearly they were not going to make the trip with anything less than an over crowded, people in the isles, with standing room only bus.  At this point we were understandably much less excited as the assigned seats we had arranged the day before were definitely full and we thought we were going to be lucky to find any seats at all.  We all did manage to find separate single seats, but this was only after the locals doubled up.  So for example in Karen�s case, instead of one person per two small seats there were three people (two adults, one boy) and several huge packages of produce per two seats.  She had to sit with her legs out to the side/middle and here backpack on her lap.  It actually gets worse because the bus stops and picks up more people from small rural villages on the way.  These people cram into the middle isle with their luggage.  Now in a space designed for four people we had anywhere from five to seven people plus huge luggage pieces.  Note:  These people don�t have the same shower regime as we do so you need to add some fairly strong smells or odor to really �picture� the ambiance.  All we needed was someone to board the bus with a crate full of chickens to complete the scene!  Thank goodness this ride was only four hours because it seemed like double and none of us could have taken it much longer.  John was pleased that after this bus ride Karen has agreed to fly to La Paz from Sucre regardless of the price, and he was even happier to find it only costs about $70 to fly anyway.  Well worth it as we�ve heard the bus ride to La Paz takes over 16 hours.

April 12, 2002:  Sucre

Sucre is a place where a lot of long term travelers hang out for a while.  They stay weeks, maybe even months.  It is inexpensive and relatively beautiful � the guide book called it �the Athens� of Bolivia with white washed buildings, titled roofs, etc., but we think maybe we had our expectations a little too high because we think it�s nice� but not the best place we�ve been.  For those that do stay awhile, there is definitely a gringo bar and night club scene here.  Yesterday we stopped at the Joyride Caf� for a coffee around 3pm� we ended up talking with the owner, tasting Bolivian beer, meeting a guy we saw earlier in Potosi (a Swiss Italian named Gee) and then all eating dinner together and not leaving the caf� until after 10pm.  As for today, we explored the city and found a really neat children�s museum up the hill with amazing views of the city (now we are closer to seeing what all the fuss was about � the city really looks pretty from atop a hill) and great gardens and play areas for local city children.  At the museum they have a little caf� with tables outside to enjoy the view.  We sat a while � got a snack � and then ran into an English couple that Mette met in Valparaiso, Chile.  They were with a couple girls (one Swiss and one Britt) � both really young (18-19) and traveling by themselves for a year between high school and college.   We�ve got to get this �travel culture� to the States.  Anyway, we all had dinner together at a vegetarian restaurant which wasn�t that special but we had a good time anyway.

April 13, 2002: Dino Tracks

Today we visited the largest dinosaur-track site in the world.  We took �the dino-truck� which leaves the city�s main plaza 3 times a day (very touristy) to a lime quarry where around 5,000 impressions of dinosaur tracks have been preserved.  Due to earth movement over the years (earthquakes, etc) a once horizontal piece of land has now been pushed upward or vertical � and formed a wall; and this has enabled the dinasour tracks to remain perfect for millions of years.  For some of the tracks, you have to use some imagination � but others are very clear.  Later that evening while trying to figure out where to eat, Mette jokingly told us to ask these two old very �local� men sitting on a bench with us; we didn�t realize she was joking � so we did.  After several minutes of consultation, they have us directions to a good restaurant that served local cuisine � usually a grill or meat house.  As we started walking to find the restaurant we wondered weather their idea of �good� and our idea of �good� were both the same and safe!  Just as we were going to turn back � we found the restaurant which turned out to be excellent.  Here�s one for the locals!

April 14, 2002 : Tarabuco Market

Up early again (6:30ish) to catch the tourist bus out to Tarabuco (~60km southeast of Sucre) for their Sunday market.  The market is a mix of artesian work such as sweater, blankets, weavings, etc for tourists and everyday items from produce and meat to hardware supplies and shoes for the locals.  Here tourists and traditionally dressed Indians ship together.  We didn�t plan on buying anything but after a couple hours, the atmosphere caught the better of us and we ended up with two weavings � one that would traditionally be worn as a skirt or shall � but that we hope to use as a table covering.  We bargined very hard and think we did ok (the seniora who sold them to us was not very happy which we use as a price guild) but we know we paid a little more than in other places (like back in Sucre)  because 1) the quality here was suppose to be better�but 2) mostly because this place has so many tourists who come every Sunday who don�t bargin very well � so the price has been artificially inflated.  We saw this happen several times while we were bargining.  Someone else (tourist) would come up and buy the same thing at the first price quoted (30-100% higher) without any hassle.  It creates a problem for the locals � because then vendors only want to sell to tourists at the higher prices�and the locals are priced out of the market.  When we got back to Sucre in the late afternoon, we were starving.  We passed a Chinese food restaurant and decided to be adventuresome and give it a try.  Turned out to be pretty good; and just the needed change of taste we had been looking for.  The place turned out to be owned by an immigrant from Hong Kong (why to Sucre � we can�t imagine); who�d have thought of Chinese food in Bolivia!

April 15, 2002 : Le Paz

So happy we flew to Le Paz!  The bus ride would have taken over 16 hours but the flight was less than an hour.  The airport is a little outside town in the high flat area called El Alto.  El Alto is actually the poorest part of town.  It gives way to a huge canyon type valley where the city is actually built.  In a reverse demographic from most US and European cities, the most expensive or wealthy neighborhoods are located at the lowest parts of the canyon (named Zona Sur) and the poorer makeshift neighborhoods and mud dwellings are built up the hills at higher altitudes making up the canyon walls.  As you look around it kind of feels like we are in a big bowl as the city fills the 5km canyon from rim to rim.  We grab a hotel (an actual hotel instead of hostal this time) in the business district and head out to explore.  Unfortunately, despite its unique oriententation in a canyon, we don�t find La Paz very charming to say the least.  The amount of pollution from local buses and cars is chocking and the lack of adequate bathrooms for the extensive amount of street vendors leaves the streets themselves smelling like and outhouse in places.  The best thing we did find was the almerzo�s (set lunch menu) -- for less than $2 we could get an amazing lunch including salad, huge bowl of soup, entr�e and dessert in a fairly nice caf�.

April 16, 2002: Coca Museum

Today we visited the coca museum where we learned all about the history of the coca plant; how it was and is used by the indigenous people in the area, and how it has been exploited and converted into evil (cocaine) by the western world.  Of course the US is the big villain here � consuming 50% of the world�s illegal coca as cocaine but then isn�t the US always the villain?  Overall, it was pretty interesting and informative.  Did you know Coca-Cola (which once actually used cocaine in its recipe) still imports tons of coca leaves from Bolivia today to add flavor to the drink?  John ate one of the complimentary coca candies from the museum and it effectively numbed his mouth and throat sort of like a cough drop.  Karen passed on the candy as she had already experienced the coca flavor from coca leaf tea while crossing the salt flats.  Although we do like the taste of coca-cola, straight coca flavor leaves something to be desired.  Maybe it�s an acquired taste.

April 17, 2002: Around Le Paz

Today we explored a little more of La Paz.  We hit a museum strip where for about 60� you visit four different museum from traditional dress to precious metals � on the same street they had a musical instrument museum so we hit that one too.  It was our favorite as there were several instruments on display that we could actually play.  After that we decided to walk to the huge cemetery where remains are 1^st buried in the ground for about 10 years, then moved to almost apartment like buildings � most four stories tall.  To get there we walked through numerous markets (artisan, produce, flower, and �black�) � infact, you could say all of La Paz is one huge street market.  The amount of people selling stuff on the street is almost indescribable.  It is so dense with people, gods, and stalls used to display their goods, that the builds and actual stores completely disappear.  Everything is sold on the street and in the street and that means in the high pollution of the city � this includes: produce and meat.  Maybe we didn�t visit the right areas, but we were not able to find a single supermarket.  Food was displayed on plastic or blankets right in the gutters of the street; a whole new meaning to picking up some food on the way home.  By the time we got to the cemetery, it was dark and closed.  We are able to see some of the large apartment buildings, but that�s it.  We are leaving tomorrow morning, so this will have to be the extent of our visit.  At this time we realize we don�t really have many pictures of Le Paz and think for a moment � well maybe next time� but then think Le Paz is a place you probably only visit once.

April 18, 2002:  Copacabana & Our Anniversary

This morning, we left for Lake Titicaca and a small town on the Bolivian Boarder named Copacabana.  The bus picked us up at our hotel around 8am, just as we were paying the bill.  In our rush to leave, we forgot to take back our credit card from the cashier.  Thankfully we realized this just a few minutes away from the hotel and persuaded the bus driver to stop long enough for John to run back and get it.  When he returned, he was breathing so hard he couldn�t even speak.  Not easy to do a full sprint at almost 12,000 feet.  We arrived in Copacabana in the afternoon and found this really cute-unique hostal run by a Dutchman and his middle-eastern wife.  The buildings had rounded/dome ceilings and interesting art work throughout.  Great place to relax and enjoy the view over Lake Titicaca and the town.  The small town of Copacabana is very cute and has a very picturesque harbor on the lake.  Many Bolivianos from La Paz vacation here and they say the city of Copacabana in Brazil is named after this place; although the Brazilians might say it�s the other way around.  In either case, it�s a great spot and we wish we had come here sooner from Le Paz�and a great place to spend our anniversary; we even arranged to have the honey-moon suitJ.  To close out the day, we hiked up the hill which looks over the town, reached the top in time to watch the sunset and share a bottle of wine.  Not too bad!  Who knew we�d be here in Bolivia 4 years ago (Not us!)

April 19, 2002:  Friday

Today we just relaxed at our hostal and walked around the small town and the small beach area.  We arranged to make an overnight trip out to Isla del Sol (where the sun was born) and plan to hike the island.  Our hostal was a great place to read and write in our journal as the honeymoon suite came with a hammock along with comfortable chairs and coffee table in a green-house type room with glass windows running the length of the two joining walls.  We really like this place.

April 20, 2002:  Isla del Sol

We headed to Isla del Sol in the morning with just our day packs and sleeping bags with plans to spend the night on the island.  The island is easily seen just off the shore of Copacabana but it took nearly two hours to reach the northern part because the boats used to ferry people to the island are so extremely slow.  During the long ride over we talked with a couple from the states, Ian and Jo Ellen, whom we�d met at our hostal in Copacabana.  We really hit it off and they had the same plans as us so we decided to hike the island together.  First we headed to the ruin sites at the northern tip of the island.  We had fun taking pictures and pretending to make sacrifices at the sacrificial stone slab as well as walking around the maze of ancient stone walls in the labyrinth.  After visiting the ruins, we started our hike to the southern part of the island about 4 hours away.  The hike offers great views of the island and Lake Titicaca as most of trail runs along a ridge on top of the island so that we could see our over the lake in either direction.  To get to the ridge required a little uphill hiking in the beginning, but the beautiful views were definitely worth it.  Later during our walk, a local came through the trail driving her sheep.  We got some pictures� but unfortunately in the commotion Karen misplaced her sun glasses and we didn�t realize this until after we�d completed the trail and found a hostal for the night.  Jo Ellen reasoned that it must have been a subconscious offering to the sun god� only appropriate on the island where the sun was born.  We should probably mention that we set a new low cost record for the night�s stay� 8 Bolivianos each (about $1.25)� but don�t really recommend it for luxury travelers.  It was clean enough, but only had shared �manual flush� toilets and no working showers.

April 21, 2002:

April 22, 2002:

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